What soil is needed for an orchid? We understand the intricacies

One of the most common causes of orchid death is the wrong mixture for growth. What these beauties just do not plant: in moist moss, greasy peat, or even just in garden soil. It does not fit into the minds of people how this plant can live without a pot of earth. Producers of deadly "soil mixtures for orchids" are not far behind. Why plant your plant so that it grows healthy and flourishes lushly, what kind of land and soil are needed, what should be the soil? Look for all this information in the article.

Interesting: the first orchids brought to Europe from the tropical jungle were struck by a massive epidemic: plants rotted and died. The reason was that, trying to please the beautiful sissies, gardeners planted them in the best soil rich in humus - which killed powerful roots.

Definitions

Before describing which substrate is required for orchids, we will examine if there is a difference between the ground, soil, and substrate, and what exactly to look for in the store.

1. Earth. If you look at a textbook on soil science, we learn that the earth is called "the loose mineral surface of the planet, along with all plant and animal organisms." Soil is a fertile part of the earth with the remains of plants, animals, microorganisms, in which plants grow in the natural environment.
2. Soil can be called as the "mineral part of the earth", and artificial soil made for growing plants. Unlike soil, soil is more resistant to erosion and contains more organic matter that is useful for plant growth.
3. well and substrate called an artificial environment for planting, specially created by man. The substrate may not contain soil at all!

   This may be the bark (as in the case of orchids, peat, expanded clay, bare rock, etc.). This is what the plant organism sits on (from Lat. Sub - under and stratum - layer, substratum) literally - litter, base, lining, nutrient medium. Its main task is to make the plant gain a foothold, receive the necessary nutrients and air exchange, and also, if necessary, ensure the life of beneficial microorganisms and suppress pathogenic ones.

In theory, everything sounds simple. In practice, when you come to a flower shop, you will find that these concepts are easily confused and interchangeable. "Substrate" can be written on the packaging with components including garden soil, as well as sand, moss, peat and a complex of nutrients. Other manufacturers name the substrate only one component, for example, peat or mineral wool.

There is also such a classification: “ground” and “soil” are products for amateurs, and “substrate” is for professionals. Substrate and nutrient should be distinguished. Nutrient soil may contain large amounts of micronutrients (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) that are nutrient for the plant, i.e., it is not land in its pure form suitable for growing flowers, but rather, organic fertilizer.

There is also the concept of "clean soil" ("soіlless mіxes") - contrary to logic, it does not contain mineral soil in principle. This is a landless mixture of coniferous bark, sand, chalk, perlite, peat and timber. So, when you see the words "soil, substrate" on a forum or in tips on growing a plant, it is worthwhile to ask what exactly was meant. And when buying a substrate, do not trust the name on the package, but look for the composition.

Substrate Features

Orchid soil is not suitable - for their life, he is not needed at all. In their homeland, in the rainforests, these plants live on trees to be as close to the sun as possible. They braid their roots with tree trunks and feed on what remains in the cracks of the bark.

Moisture is obtained directly from the air. That is why orchids have such strange, bizarre roots. The substrate for the alien from the tropics is needed primarily in order for the plant to be able to gain a foothold and hold in one place. When choosing, you do not need to pay attention to the nutritional benefits of the soil - orchids also grow well in a fully artificial foam.

ATTENTION: But the structure of the soil, its permeability to air and moisture is very important. An ideal substrate for an orchid should completely dry in 3 days.

The importance of making the right choice

Recommendations for choosing a soil for orchids are not easy, especially for a beginner. But you should not neglect them, because it is the correct and high-quality substrate that provides growth and lush flowering. If the soil is not suitable in composition and density, the orchid will stop blooming (as an option, it won’t even start), and then it will die.

You should not save on the substrate, choosing a cheap one or planting it in a plant that first turns up by the arm. Saving will be doubtful, since this way you can destroy an expensive plant.

Read about how to grow an orchid without soil here.

Basic requirements for soil mixture

What requirements should the soil for plants meet? An experienced florist will say that he should:

• hold moisture well for the roots of the plant;
• do not sour;
• "breathe", do not be too compressed.

These rules apply to the soil for all indoor plants. But not for unique orchids, the roots of which are capable of storing moisture no worse than a high-quality earth mixture. Due to the layer of velamen covering them, the roots of orchids are retained and give moisture to the plant as needed. In this case, the roots themselves must breathe and be dry from above. Interesting: the structure of velamen is somewhat reminiscent of a sponge.

This provides an opportunity for such a comparison: imagine what would happen if the synthetic sponge was kept wet and closed for a week? That's right, it rots and molds. The same thing, if not worse, will happen with the organic "sponge".

Based on this, the substrate for orchids should dry out as soon as possible. The requirements for it are:

• in no case contain garden land;
• be able to keep the orchid upright;
• have good bandwidth, retain moisture to a minimum.

Composition that is suitable for growing: description and photo

All orchids can be divided into two large groups: epiphytes (growing on the trunks, branches and roots of trees) and terrestrial - growing in the ground. Compositions for epiphytes and terrestrial orchids need different.

For epiphytic

It uses a mixture of bark mixed with sand, cork, charcoal, moss, without adding earth! Here are examples of the right mixes:

1. Pine bark (pieces of 10-15 mm), peat, perlite, sequoia bark (ratio 70/10/10/10/10, respectively).
2. Coniferous bark, charcoal, sphagnum moss (ratio 90/5/5%).
3. Coniferous bark (pieces of 5-15 mm), polystyrene, expanded clay, peat, charcoal (pieces of 4-10 mm) (ratio 50/20/15/10/5%). This mixture is ideal for all varieties of phalaenopsis and Cattleya.
4. Sphagnum moss, sand, peat, perlite (all in equal shares). This mixture is ideal for orchids that prefer a constantly wet substrate:
   • miltonia;
   • Wanda
   • dracula;
   • calendars;
   • lycasts.
5. Coniferous bark, cork material, polystyrene foam, peat (ratio 40/30/20/10%). Like the previous one, the composition is suitable for especially hygrophilous plants, but it will be a little drier than the previous one.

For ground

They grow in a substrate for epiphytes, but require the addition of garden soil and dry leaves. For better growth of terrestrial orchids, special cortical material is placed in the substrate. Examples of mixtures:

1. Peat, dry oak leaves, pine bark, expanded clay (ratio 40/20/20/20%). Suitable for papiopedium.
2. For him: peat, clay sand, perlite, pine bark (35/35/25/15%).
3. Peat, clay, polystyrene foam, charcoal (40/25/25/10) - for cymbidium and zygopetalyum.

Which is better not to add?

IMPORTANT: It is strictly forbidden in compositions for epiphytes earth! It immediately makes the composition too dense, kills the normal circulation of air.

Otherwise, the most dangerous components are:

1. Moss. An excessive amount of this dehumidifier leads to root decay. Beginners should not put it in a pot with an orchid. If you decide to do this, then put it on 2 fingers (located horizontally!), And preferably only in the summer. The colder the room and the higher its humidity, the less moisture trap should be in the pot.

   It is strictly forbidden to plant an orchid on the so-called "moss bomb", pushing a piece of sphagnum between the roots. From this they rot.

2. Peat. In a substrate with a lot of peat, the roots will not dry out.
3. Charcoal - if you overdo it, it will harm the plant. Coal accumulates salt, which in the future will provoke problems with salt balance during irrigation. If you plan to feed the orchid often, you can’t put coal.

Necessary components and their use

Moss

Most often, sphagnum is taken. He has the ability to:

• loosen the soil;
• retain water without compacting the soil;
• absorb harmful salts from water for irrigation;
• has a bactericidal effect.

Sphagnum is sold in flower shops already dried and disinfected.. You can assemble it yourself (best of all - in late autumn).

There is an option in which sphagnum is placed in pots with a living orchid and grows with it. It is beautiful, but automatically increases the risk of infection with harmful insects and microorganisms. Moss is used for orchids as:

• mulching layer;
• an independent substrate in which new plants take root;
• substrate for resuscitation of specimens in which the root system has decayed or dried;
• fixing and compacting plants in baskets and blocks;

Watch a video on using sphagnum moss for orchids:

Bark

The main component of many substrates. Bark for substrate orchids peeling from dead trees, recently dead plants. It is best to take a pine, if it is not - any coniferous species, or oak with beech.

With independent preparation of the bark, it must be washed with boiling water and dried in the oven. Otherwise, there is a great risk of infecting the orchid with pests brought from the forest in the folds of the bark.

The bark supplies the orchid with nutrients, fixes the plant in place. It should be dry and wide enough in thickness.

Watch a video about collecting and harvesting bark for orchids:

Drainage

Whether drainage is needed or not, there is no consensus. According to one of them, it is not needed, because interferes with the free movement of air, causes waterlogging. According to the second - it is needed, it increases the humidity of the air, not the plant itself. Drainage prevents excess water from saturating the roots and saturates the air around them with moisture.

TIP: Whether to use drainage or not is up to you. In its quality, you can take brick fragments, granite crushed stone, expanded clay, river pebbles, polystyrene or just river sand. The pot is filled with drainage by ¼, sometimes by half.

Earth

Apply only to land varieties and only leaf! This is the soil formed as a result of decomposition of wood foliage. It can be dug up in the forest, but sieved thoroughly before use. All sticks, insects, not completely decomposed leaves are removed. Then the sheet earth is added to the mixture according to the composition.

Coal

This is a necessary component. It is used as a good sorbent and disinfectant (as the latter, it can be replaced with cinnamon). Excellent soil structure. Pieces of coal 2 cm in size are taken. Coal is often produced on its own by simply burning a piece of wood.

Minerals

In the composition of the substrate, expanded clay, polystyrene, perlite are used. They will not nourish the plant, but they will serve as excellent drainage and disperse the substrate, improving air access.

How to replace natural materials?

You can often see that the natural components in substrates for orchids are replaced by materials of man-made origin. This is acceptable, because the orchid does not need super-nutritiveness. The main thing is that the substrate does not allow root decay, provides access to air and (optionally) light. Apply:

1. Foam and foam - both as additives and as a main component They are durable, do not accumulate and do not emit harmful substances, crumble well, which ensures friability, guarantee air permeability.
2. Perlite and vermiculite - as drainage. They improve the friability of the substrate, contribute to the normalization of air-water balance.

Shop option or do it yourself?

A clear choice is not possible here. If you are new to orchid cultivation, it is better to purchase the substrate in the store, otherwise you can experiment with self-preparation.

Shop primer has the following advantages:

• compiled by professionals (if you select a proven brand);
• allows you to quickly transplant a plant;

A home-made substrate for orchids also has several advantages:

• allows you to adjust the conditions in the room for yourself (for example, if the house is too wet or cold);
• removes unnecessary and harmful components;
• opens up space for experimentation.

Finished Product Search

The choice in stores is the broadest today. Unfortunately, not all growers are conscientious, there are even substrates for orchids based on earth and humus. Pay attention to:

• Structure. If there is land, do not take it.
• Destination The packaging should be labeled "for epiphytes."
• On the state of the bark: pieces are large, whole, not crumbled. If the substrate resembles a lump of earth, it is unsuitable.

For the first plant, select a proven mixture. For example:

1. "Flower happiness". Sold in packages of 2 liters. Composition: larch bark, peat, expanded clay, coal. Orchids grow well on "Flower Happiness", quickly produce peduncles. Before planting, it is better to add pine bark to the substrate.
2. "Ambulance". 5 liter bags The main component in the composition is pine bark, which is valuable. As the name implies, it is used for transplanting injured plants, depositing new weakened individuals.

How to do it yourself?

ATTENTION: You can take up independent creativity by learning more about each of the components for the substrate. If there are several orchids in the house, make an individual mixture for each. This will determine the ideal composition.

How successful the soil is can be determined by the frequency and volume of flowering: the more, the more successful the soil. The substrate is prepared before the transplant.

The bark is disassembled, crushed and subjected to heat treatment. Coal is crushed, moss is soaked in water for a day. If there is land - it needs to be sieved, and the fern should be washed to remove insects. Drainage is selected at the bottom. You can take what is at hand: broken brick or nutshell.

Then you mix the composition, following pre-defined proportions. The main part should be on the bark, and if the orchid needs top dressing - on peat.

Watch the video about the preparation and preparation of the substrate for the orchid with your own hands:

Is it possible to plant an indoor flower in ordinary earth?

It’s impossible - the plant will die sooner or later. Orchids, despite their reputation as tropical sissies, are very tenacious plants.. Therefore, planted in ordinary soil, they can grow and even bloom for some time, but their roots will already rot at this time. Then the plant will lose leaves and die.

But to save an orchid planted in ordinary land is quite possible.To do this, urgently transplant the plant into a normal substrate, after drying the roots and treating them with crushed charcoal or cinnamon from rot.

Read more about whether it is possible to plant an orchid in ordinary land, read here.

Watch the video about the consequences of growing an orchid in plain earth and transplanting it into a suitable substrate:

What to do if the soil is chosen incorrectly?

Unfortunately, it will be possible to understand the nuances only after planting an orchid and observing its reaction. To exclude the option in which the soil does not fit at all, conduct this test: pour the substrate with water and observe it for 3-4 days. A mixture is suitable for a plant if it:

• remained loose after watering, and did not stick together in clods;
• dried out no more than 3-4 days.

When landing in the wrong soil, nothing bad will happen, but only at the beginning. Soon the plant will begin to hurt (most often the wrong substrate is too dense a substrate in which rot develops). If it does not bloom for a long time, loses leaves, if the visible roots look somehow wrong - this is an occasion to suspect the soil. When transplanting from the wrong soil, you may find that the root system is substantially damaged or completely rotted.

You can reanimate an orchid:

1. Take it out of the pot (it is better to cut the plastic so as not to additionally injure the roots by squeezing).
2. Rinse the roots thoroughly. First with warm water, then with a fungicide solution.
3. Cut rotten and dried with alcohol-sanitized scissors. Sliced ​​areas are sprinkled with activated carbon powder.
4. Plant the plant in a new, regular soil, and wait. The first three days can not be watered.

If the orchid has completely lost its roots, it is transplanted into moss and create a greenhouse effect for building a new root system. It will begin to form somewhere in a month.

Is the substrate required?

The substrate is mainly needed for support. So, if you install something in the pot, for which the roots are fixed and create a constantly moist environment - the orchid will feel great. Watering is necessary once a week. Plants planted on a large snag or even on a stone look very nice. In this case, the roots need to be tied so that the orchid does not fall.

The orchid in the vase produces a striking effect. Over time, it will begin to hang, leaning on the edges of the container. At the bottom of the vase you need to lay sphagnum or pour a little water.

Conclusion

Orchid is an unusual plant, and the field of experiments with how and in what to plant it is very wide. Each instance has its own special ideal conditions. With a little patience and creativity, you will find them, and the orchid will thank you with luxurious flowering!

Watch the video: Tips & Tricks for Phalaenopsis Orchids (November 2024).